June 28, 2026

Slovenia Day Four: Lake Bled Island, Impossible Hills, and the First Real Day of Summer

“Today felt like summer vacation distilled into a single day: a rowboat across crystal clear water, an accidental mountain hike, a swim in an alpine lake, far too much cream cake, and ending the evening tucked into bed before seven.”


🗺️ Today’s Plan


✈️ My Journey

🚌 Goodbye Ljubljana

Bus Ticket to Bled was €4.80


Tip: Get to the bus early! And in line. I got there early but not in line and there were easily 2 busses worth of people. The people who didn’t make it had to wait an hour for the next one. I was the last one on, barely made it! Crazy! Though I left my bag outside and hope it made it on. I didn’t see it by the bus so maybe someone shoved it on. Kinda scared about that. SO glad I have my wallet and charger. Oh crap not my passport though. That’s the main thing my luggage has that I cannot replace. Jeez. If need be I’ll go back to Ljubljana bus station and see if anyone turned it in to lost and found? I’m 80% positive it’s on the bus storage. Oh well.


We got there right on time despite leaving later! 9:40. Bus system in Slovenia is still fantastic. I sat next to another solo female traveler. I looked around- a lot of moms and daughters and old retired couples. Strange, there seems to be very few solo male travelers! It makes me feel safe, especially to see other solo female travelers on my journey.


💙 First Impressions of Lake Bled

I arrived- yippie! Heard from my Airbnb host Ana that the bottom side of the lake is trafficky- have to get down to the walking path for any rest from the cars.

Her airbnb is SO CUTE! I wish I was sponsored. It’s like a little fairy garden, complete with lavender, roses, grapes, and the littlest alpine strawberries. I could live here forever.


Loads of tourists in Bled- seems like everyone here is a tourist. It reminds me of Big Bear Lake in CA. Or any national park, really.


I was walking along the lake when I saw a plenta boat nearly full of tourists! He was waiting for just two more. I sat, and about a minute later, another solo female traveler sat down too, and the boat guide took off! He said we pay after the ride.


🚣 Bled Island

This is Slovenia’s only natural island!

To get to it, you have to row yourself (Runs about €20 to €30 per hour depending on the dock, sometimes cheaper for the first hour with a reduced rate for extra hours, some docks: first hour €15 to €18, additional hours a bit less)

OR take a €20 euro plenta boat with a guy that HAND ROWS you across the lake! He rows standing up, which is a tradition passed down through local families for generations. How cool! Motorboats are banned on the lake, so it stays quiet, which is great.

I’ve also seen kayaks on the lake so you can get those too from the local hotels surrounding the lake. I saw they were about €15 to €20/hour.

I learned from the little museum there that the island holds the Pilgrimage Church of the Assumption of Mary, built in the 17th century on the site of an older pagan temple once dedicated to Živa, the Slavic goddess of love and fertility!!

Legend says fairies created the lake after flooding a valley to stop shepherds’ sheep from destroying their dance floor grass, leaving only the island behind as their remaining stage. Like WHAT! Throughout my trip, I learned of so many fairy tales like this one that I just can’t get over.

Is the Traditional Pletna Boat Worth It?

€20 per adult round trip, €10 for kids, cash only, paid directly to the “pletnar” (the oarsman) at the end! We had about 45 minutes of free time on the island (lame imo- I wish it was at least an hour), and I ran back just in time to pay and get back on. This is strange to me, because on our way back, a few people did not make it and so our plentar didn’t get paid for all his sweaty rowing.

Honestly? I WOULD DO THIS AGAIN! I was at first affronted by the outrageous price ($20 even felt like a lot, and this was in euros so in my head I had to calculate a bit more) AND you have to pay the stupid €12 fee to see the church/ring the bell and see the museum and bell tower, so REALLY it’s €32 (shudder) in a tight 45 minute window.

BUT!

It genuinely is worth it to me. I loved the ride over with the lake views (I almost wanted to tip the guy for all the rowing- seriously, I sat right next to him, and it did not look easy), and the island is gorgeous. Plus, I adore the good luck ringing of the bell, and I learned a lot about Slovenia and its national anthem on the island. Hate to admit it, but, yeah, I’d do this again. But maybe only once more.


🔔 Ringing the Wishing Bell

The island church has a “wishing bell.” Tradition holds that if you ring it three times, your wish comes true, but you have to climb 99 steps first to reach it. Honestly it did not feel like 99 steps!

One of Bled’s most famous legends tells of Poliksena, a grieving widow whose husband was murdered by bandits. She commissioned a bell for the island church in his memory, but while it was being transported across the lake, a violent storm sank the boat and the bell to the bottom of the lake.

Heartbroken, the widow entered a convent in Rome. After her death, the Pope learned of her story and donated a new bell to the island church. According to local tradition, anyone who rings this bell with a sincere heart will have their prayers heard.

Some say the original bell can still be heard ringing beneath the lake during storms!

You have to pull the rope 3 times, wait a beat, THEN the bell chimes. This was so fun. I shall not tell you what I wished for!


🚤 The Way Back to Shore and Final Thoughts

I chatted with three other Americans- a retired couple from Idaho and a woman who was traveling with her sister who didn’t want to go to the island. We chatted about everything and nothing on that journey back (about 25 minutes each way). It felt so relaxing to the mind to speak English. Yes, everyone in Slovenia does, but maybe it was because of the cultural similarities. We spoke about weather, of course, the heat wave, Costco, manchego cheese. We didn’t exchange names or anything, this was just friendly idle chatter. It felt like a little slice of home. We all went our own separate ways, excited for the rest of the day ahead. 

Ignore my huffing and puffing up the 99 steps PLEASE
The bell tower had all these fun facts as you climbed your way up!
Gorgeous view of the castle and the island! We’ll check out the castle tomorrow!

🥾 The Hike Google Maps Called “10 Minutes”

GOOGLE MAPS YOU ARE MY NEMESIS

I decided to continue my walk along the south side of the lake and back to my place, hoping to eventually stop for some bled cream cake I’ve heard so much about. The south side of the lake is by all the traffic and in the sun. Way preferable to do north side I’ll bet. My host had mentioned this, but I wanted to walk this part of the lake because tomorrow I’d do the north part to the castle, and didn’t want to miss anything in my exploration of Bled. 

I found a hike! Mala Osojnica, a 10 minute detour from my lake walk. Why not?

I wish I heeded my instinct to not keep going. The hike was most certainly NOT 10 minutes (thanks, Google)- it ended up being a 50 minute detour of winding, steep, rocky terrain up to an admittedly nice view of the lake and the church garnished island. It was fine at first, but it just kept going. I mentally encouraged myself by saying: it’ll be just around this bend! I kept refreshing the google map to watch my little map go up and up and up- how was this supposed to be 10 minutes, I wondered? I constantly thought of myself as that miner meme, with the miner who turns away just before he strikes at diamonds. Just keep pushing…

I passed by a middle aged German (?) couple, and the husband saw my clear distress as I looked up to see more winding path nearly straight up the side of the mountain. He gave me an encouraging smile and said “not much farther now.” I thanked him and thought, alright, maybe I can do this.

His wife came up beside him and, with a half smile on her face said, “he’s lying.” I must have looked crestfallen (though I like to think I hide my emotions better) because she followed up with “but it’s worth it… Would you like to see pictures of the view?”

Her husband was already ahead of her, cheerfully trotting down the side of the mountain. I was jealous he was completed with the quest. I figured it’d be rude to turn her down so I said yes. The view from the pictures did look nice- though I do believe it’s one of those sights that pictures cannot do justice to. I pressed on, emboldened by these kind strangers. 

Took me 30 mins to hike to the top of the viewpoint- though, there was somehow still more wraparound trail that looped above the bench upon which I sat. I made up my mind: Not worth it imo. Incredibly steep and hot. Maybe if you went in the morning and brought lots of water and hiking boots. Though, kids were doing it, and families, and I consider myself a hiker. I think I was just hungry- no food since my aldi peanut butter waffle concoction at 7:00. I’m heading back for a swim and bled cake. Hope it’s not 30 minutes back down. 

It ended up being 20 minutes back down! I skidded down one part, slamming my hands down on the rocks, adding insult to injury. I was elated to see the signal sign to the trail, and was grateful to just walk around the lake again.


🌊 The Perfect One-Day Walking Route Around Lake Bled

The full walking loop around the lake is about 6 km, roughly 1.5 hours, plus more time if you’re stopping for photos.

In summer the lake can warm up to around 26°C (78°F), warm for an alpine lake, and swimming is genuinely popular with locals, not just tourists.

My host, Ana, told me that in winter, when it’s cold enough, the lake sometimes freezes solid enough to ice skate on. It has not frozen. over enough to skate on for many years now though, and she doubts it ever will again.

As I walked, I saw little itty bitty strawberries! I thought they were red flowers at first, but I recognized them from my host’s garden this morning, and the common leaves. So cute! I didn’t pick any because there were so few, but I loved to look at them amongst the butterflies.

I stopped by a little tree on the shore of lake bled. Luckily, I had the foresight to change into my swimsuit under my clothes at the island, so I just had to shuck my skirt and top and swam in! The water was temperate and so refreshing. Little fish swam nearby. A family, speaking a language I could not identify, played in the water maybe 50 feet away from me. The water is clear and turquoise, and a balm on my sun warmed skin and aching bones after my goat like adventure up adjacent-to-the viewpoint. 

Refreshed, I sat on the trunk of the gnarled tree, poised like a hand above the water, and I breathed in deep the sounds of the water splashes far off and the birds in the flickering trees. I used my shirt to mop off my feet, and, repellently, put my socks back on and laced up my hiking boots. I pulled the shirt over my head, affixed my distinctly reflective blue sunglasses, and set off again on a 20 ish minute walk to the closest restaurant above a 4.0 rating. I kept checking the estimated walking time on my google maps, and my shaky legs felt like they could hardly make it to the next stopping point.


🍰 Bled Cream Cake

That happened to be Grajska plaza Restaurant- exorbitantly expensive especially by Slovenian standards (though I’m quickly learning that Slovenia is only slightly cheaper than southern CA, and that’s even going outside tourist areas for food and accommodations), BUT it did just the trick. A strawberry rose spritz, ‘nduja rigatoni, and bled cream cake later, I was right as rain again. The rigatoni was so good and savory. The spritz was refreshing, but mostly because it was an iced drink. Not worth €8.90. The rigatoni was €21.50, and the bled cake €7.90. As I’m writing this, I was wondering at all the strange prices (seriously why 90?) but then I remembered their tax is calculated in, which is still jarring to me that you can just… add up the cost of all the items and that’s what you pay. Like you can actually predict how much you’re spending instead of guesstimating it’ll be around €40, which is what I did when I handed over my €50 bill. Huh. 

Bled is famous for kremšnita (cream cake), a vanilla custard and whipped cream pastry invented locally, with something like half a million sold in the area every year.

The bled cream cake was so good! Very custardy-spongey texture (very much like the oreo cream pie jello cake we used to make) with a ton of whipping cream and a flat crust on top and bottom. The crust tastes like cannoli. Very light in sweetness, with a slight vanilla flavor. And they give you a ton! I don’t think I would eat a lot of this at home, but then, I’m not a huge dessert person anyways.

Pretty walk on the north side, fewer crowds, more shade, and no traffic. WAY better than the south side walk.
“Please no picknicks!” Mind you, møøse bites Kan be pretti nasti…

🌸 A Garden Welcome

My Airbnb host is so sweet! For check in, she insisted we sit in the garden under her mirabelle plum and have lemonade. She mentioned one morning she will make me breakfast- omelette or yogurt, my choice. Maybe tomorrow. I’m also a super early bird so I’ll probably end up sneaking out. The stay is so gorgeous. No AC, but I knew that upon booking. 

As I sit on my fluffy bed, freshly showered, phone charging (what a relief), skin pleasantly sun-warmed and sort of buzzing (I slathered on so much sunscreen I probably looked like a ghost and yet I’ll bet I have the beginnings of a slight sunburn coming on. Ah, summertime), cataloguing my day, I feel so relaxed and good. Clean, warm, well fed. I just polished off my leftovers from my late (2:00 pm) lunch, and am feeling that summertime drowsiness. It’s 6:45 pm, but my teeth are brushed and I feel ready for sleep. There’s only a German couple staying right next door to my room, and we share the bathroom. They smiled when we passed by in the garden, they with their wine glasses and me with my leftovers on a tray my host carefully set for me (wow she’s so sweet!!! And those tea trays are coming back “in style.” I didn’t even know they existed until recently and now I’m dying to steal that idea…). I hope neither of us wake the other- not them for my early sleep, or me for my early wake up. 


🌙 Evening Reflections

I mentally tap my pen into ink and set it upon the parchment: let’s plan. Tomorrow on the docket is to visit bled castle nice and early, then either toboggan or take the bus 20 minutes to see vintgar gorge. I try to not give myself more than two tasks a day so I have time to relax and enjoy actually being there rather than rushing through. I love a good nature walk, but I’m reluctant to sit another bus, especially as I have a tour booked the next day (gulp).

I mentioned this to my host, and she said that oh yes her guests have done that triglav tour and they always leave early and come back late. I was already apprehensive about the length of the tour (7:40 pickup time to whenever they drop us off…). Even if it’s a 10 hour tour (jeeeeesus), it should be over at 5:00. 7:00 at the latest. That’s good. My brain cannot handle full crazy activities for 12 hours, man.

And OMG, strawberry moon in Capricorn! It’s not full until tomorrow night, but it was so cool to see this building up! It marks the peak of the wild strawberry harvest. “Spiritually and astrologically, this moon symbolizes abundance, gratitude, and the sweet rewards of hard work” according to my YouTube tarot reading lol. Perfect timing, because I saw strawberries growing at my Airbnb and around Bled lake!

And then…

The neighbors started having extremely enthusiastic sex.

I panicked, ran to the bathroom, and immediately slammed the door accidentally too hard.

Wonderful.

Now they definitely know I’m awake.

Eventually, I snuck back to my room, and plugged in my headphones to ignore the creaking floorboards.

This house was built in 1908. These walls know everything.

Meanwhile: I’m lying in bed watching a video essay about patriarchy in the Barbie movie.

Some people truly live very different lives.


🧭 Traveler’s Guide

Stay overnight if you can!! Walking around Bled the next morning was SO nice and magical with way fewer crowds. After 10:00 it can get packed. Also staying in the evening once the day-trip crowds clear out is a nice reprieve. You could also stay at Lake Bohinj for a laid-back time.

Bus Tips

  • Arrive early!! You could buy your ticket and be on time but if you’re not in line for this bus from Ljubljana to Bled, you could be forced to wait for the next one!
  • Maybe store valuables in your backpack, not your suitcase.

Bled Island

  • €20 traditional boat.
  • €12 island ticket.
  • Ring the wishing bell three times and wait a beat for it to actually ring lol.
  • The museum and bell tower are included, at least.

Mala Osojnica

Google says ten minutes. Google lies!!!

Bring:

  • water
  • hiking boots
  • breakfast
  • determination

Best sunrise viewpoints ARE the eastern shore near the rowing club, or the elevated Mala Osojnica and Ojstrica viewpoints for that classic postcard shot. Gotta admit, the view is great, just be better prepared than I was.

Swimming

Bring your swimsuit underneath your clothes! I’m not a huge swimmer and didn’t think I’d actually go in, but it was so warm and worth it after a sweaty hike. The lake is crystal clear.

Additional Things to do From Bled

Nearby Vintgar Gorge is a common add-on, a short drive away, with boardwalks along a narrow river canyon ending at a waterfall. Worth a half day if you have time! I didn’t get a chance to this trip, but I will go next time!

Food

Grajska Plaža:

✔ Fantastic pasta

✔ Worth trying the famous cream cake

✔ Tourist prices 🙁

If you’re budget-conscious, skip restaurant markups and grab local charcuterie, cheese, and wine from a Mercator supermarket for a lakeside picnic instead. I did this on my {Alpine tour from Bled which you can check out here!}


📸 Traveler’s Notes

Favorite moment

Swimming after the hike!!

Kindest interaction

The German couple encouraging me up the mountain! How cute!

Best food

The nduja rigatoni. Mmmmm.

Biggest surprise

A 10 minute hike being about an hour. *eyeball twitch*

Favorite photo

The first view from Mala Osojnica!


💶 Expenses

ItemCost
Bus to Bled€4.80
Traditional boat€20
Island ticket€12
Strawberry rosé spritz€8.90
Nduja rigatoni€21.50
Bled cream cake€7.90
Total€75.10 or $86, plus my $115/night stay in Bled is $201/day in Bled OOOOF.

⭐ Overall Rating

CategoryRating
Scenery⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Swimming⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Hiking⭐⭐⭐⭐☆
Food⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Crowds⭐⭐⭐☆☆
Would I return?Absolutely.

Want to check out Day 5 where I Toboggan and Check Out Lake Bled Castle? {Click here!}

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